A tourist guide to Mae Hong Son, location attractions and where to stay

Guide to Mae Hong Son

A crisp and misty morning on Mae Hong Son's famous Nong Jong Kham pond.

Mae Hong Son is a truly isolated frontier town, about five hours drive over unimaginable mountain passes North of Chiang Mai, and lies in a pretty valley, far away from the rest of Thailand. The city is bordered by Myanmar to the north and west, and consequently incorporates a strong Burmese influence. Though the town itself is not particularly beautiful, it presents a number of enticing temples and fabulously scenic surrounds - with a pretty lake in its centre and a sleepy character.

Mae Hong Son's most dominant attraction is the temple of Phra That Doi Kong Mu, situated on a hill overlooking the city. The wat was commissioned by Mae Hong Son's first king, Phaya Singhanatracha, and affords lovely views over the city and its environs. From here you can see the pond - known as Nong Jong Kham, which creates a lovely spacious park in the city and is responsible for all the famous postcard images reflecting the distinctive temple on its edge.

Temples of interest include Wat Hua Wiang, containing a sacred image, and Wat Phra Non, which houses a massive Reclining Buddha statue in the Burmese style. Perhaps the most visited however is Wat Chong Klang and Wat Chong Kham, which sit beside the pond and display distinctive tiered roofs and tin filigree so typical of Burmese temples. These two are known for their impressive glass paintings depicting the life of Buddha, and over 30 wooden doll carvings that originated in Myanmar. The Chong Kham Pond was once a bathing pool for elephants, and is particularly impressive in the mist of early mornings, when it reflects the temple.

The long-necked Paduang women are big tourist draw card in Mae Hong Son.

The city's high street is Khunlum Phraphat road, and is flanked by handicraft outlets, restaurants, bars and tour companies. This is a prime place to pick up hill tribe textiles and antiques. Singhanat Bamrung road is distinguished by its traditional Shan teak wood houses, and the local crafts and fabrics that are sold in its stores.

The months of November and December are special in the Mae Hong Son area, due to the startlingly yellow wild sunflowers that smother the fields of Doi Mae U-Kho. If you happen to be in the area at this time of year, make a special effort to visit this colourful expanse - the golden blanket created by the blooming flowers is a truly wondrous vision. In early January there is a famous Shan novice monk parade, when young sons are dressed up, make up and all.

Sticking your neck out for tourism

A big tourist attraction in Mae Hong Son, though a somewhat controversial one, is the three Paduan villages of Nai Soi, Hoi Sen Thao and Huay Ma Kehn Som which are famous for their long-necked women - complete with coils of brass rings. This tradition has been exploited for tourist purposes and visitors are charged 250 baht for the priviledge of turning this into a human zoo. However, it's about the best opportunity this minority group have at making money, and contrary to appearance, the neck isn't actually elogated, the clavicle bone is simply forced down and does no harm.

En route to Mae Hong Son, on highway 1095, it is worth stopping at the charming settlements of Pai and Soppong (Pang Mapha). Pai is a quaint riverside town, boasting tranquil hot springs, a vibrant town centre with a funky bohemian feel, and cheap humble guesthouses. Soppong is much quieter, and more suited to those preferring early nights and active days. The major attraction here is Tham Lod, with its black water rafting. The whole area is famous for its karst topography and resulting vast cavern system, featuring the remains of ancient wood coffins. Caving is rewarding here and for this you’ll want to spend the night at Cave Lodge. The owner, John Spies is a expert on the area.

Past Soppong, towards Mae Hong Son, is the nature reserve of Tham Pla Forest Park. Here you will find a small cave with a pool at its base. The water is teeming with fish that the local people believe to be an incarnation of sacred spirits.

Mae Hong Son can be reached by car from Chiang Mai via highways 1095 or 108, or by buses leaving several times daily from the city's Arcade station. Mae Hong Son has an airport, but there are no direct flights from Bangkok - you will need to fly to Chiang Mai and take a connecting plane from here to the northern destination. Hiring a car and driving the famous 'Mae Hong Son' loop, via Pai and returning via Doi Inthanon National Park, South of Chiang Mai, is a wonderful adventure that will take about three or four days on account of the windy mountain roads which present such awesome vistas.

Where to stay in Mae Hong Son - Guesthouses & Hotels

Rooks Holiday Hotel and resort: is a high end establishment with rooms and bungalows, with full facilities, located south of the main town. Address: 114/5-7 Khunlumprapas Road, tel: +66 53 612 324-9, 611 390, Accommodate 114 Suite & Superior rooms and 70 units bungalows starting at 1400 baht.

Piya Guesthouse: sits on the ponds edge, across the road, with simple and affordable bungalows and small garden; centrally located. Address: 1/1 Khunlumprapas Rd., Soi 3, Mae Hong Son, 58000 Thailand, Tel: +66 53 611 260, Fax: +66 53 612 308, AC private bedroom 600 baht. 14 rooms..

Baiyoke Chalets: offer some of the nicest atmosphere, with off-season discounts, though its popular and sometimes booked out. 10 minute walk from the centre. Address: 90 Khumlumpraphat Rd., Muang, Mae Hong Son 58000, 38 rooms, Price from: THB 920, Tel: +66 53 611 486, 611 862, 611 536, Fax: +66 53 611 533.