My Chiang Mai: massages

Once a week I go for a massage. It's a bit indulgent I guess, but it only costs me US$3 an hour! It's so relaxing. I'm a teacher, I stand up for five hours a day and sometimes my back really aches, so every Friday I go to my favourite massage shop and relax for an hour and a half.

Thai massage can be a little brutal but I've found a sweet old woman who now knows how hard or soft I prefer the massage. We're friends, her name is Mam, and I practice my Thai language on her. She practices her English on me, which is much better than my Thai, but it's a lovely experience to learn about Thai culture first-hand, week after week.

She tells me all about her children and mischievous husband who is always off playing cards. I tell her about my husband and boys, she's always curious about them in particular. She's enormously proud of her son who has become a monk - I can tell by the smile on her face.

She's always pleased to see me, and is always, without exception, calm and serene as she works patiently over my big 'farang' body, smiling silently to me. I think, as middle-aged women, we understand each other better and it's a different experience from working with teenagers all day, she's more mature and is often imparting family tips to me, in a subtle way.

I like the quiet serenity of the massage shop, down a small soi off the busy street. Hardly anyone ever comes here, but Mam doesn't mind, she sits around idly watching TV or eating. The loose clothes she gives me to wear are always freshly ironed and sweet smelling and she puts on the radio (usually soft Thai ballads), which adds to the relaxing atmosphere.

Most people associate massage in Thailand with sleaze, but I've been to many places similar to Mam's, where you can get a good honest massage for a few dollars. I always tip Mam; sometimes I really spoil myself and get an oil massage, which costs about US$5 an hour. If I've had a tough week in the classroom I can look forward to relaxing at Mam's and getting a wonderful all-over massage from head to toe.

Margaret Alveres from USA

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