Doi Suithep temple in the sky, Chiang Mai Thailand

Chiang Mai’s Guardian temple

Arriving in Chiang Mai, the first and most obvious feature visitors see is the huge mountain that looms over the western side of city. Nothing characterises Northern Thailand more than the mountains and at 1700m high, Doi Pui is Thailand’s eighth highest peak. Perched on a lesser peak, 1300 meters up the eastern face of this mountain sits the unmistakable site of Wat Prathat Doi Suithep. It is one of Thailand’s most revered temples and the distinctive gilded chedi and two pine trees flanking it can be seen from all over the Ping valley.

Like a guardian angel, this temple has kept a watchful spiritual eye on Chiang Mai for more than half a millennium. A temple was first established here as far back as 1383 but the choice of the site came about in 1371, supposedly by divine direction. According to legend a relic of the Lord Buddha arrived in the relatively new settlement of Chiang Mai to be enshrined in the newly built Wat Suan Dok. But the relic split in two and the second piece was placed on the back of an elephant which apparently headed for Doi Suithep. After three days of wandering the elephant came upon the site of the present day temple and promptly died. Today the relic is said to buried under the 16 meter chedi that forms the centre of the complex.

Just 200 steps to go…!

Visitors to the temple arrive via an exhausting 200 step stair case that is lined by lengthy symbolic nagas (mythical snakes). A short funicular rail is also available for those who aren’t too fit. The inner sanctum of the temple complex is one of the classic images of Chiang Mai and the North. After removing your shoes you enter a sacred courtyard of marbled floor with the gilded chedi occupying the centre. It is always busy and the sight of Thai pilgrims making merit and praying at the designated altars, their hands clasping an offering of incense sticks and a lotus bud as they make an offering to the Buddha, is an unforgettable impression of Thailand. Look again, and you notice devotees walking slowly around the chedi in a clockwise fashion — three circumnavigations — as is the tradition at important temples like this.

There is plenty of activity in this courtyard and lots of photo taking, but if you wander around you will find cloisters line the perimeter contain numerous bronze Buddha images lined up in perfect symmetry. Two ornate Viharn are to be found at the east and west sides of the cloister and in these small covered enclosures you will find a seated monk who offers blessings to visitors of all religions. This entails sitting cross-legged and receiving a short prayer and ‘splash’ of holy water. A symbolic piece of string is also tied to the wrists of those who remain.

The temple has been continuously developed over the centuries and much of the present temple grounds took shape in 1805 under the regent Chao Kawila, who was responsible for wrestling the city back from Burmese control. At this time the extensive murals were added to the cloister walls. The chedi itself is fenced off and four ornately decorated five-tiered traditional Thai umbrellas stand at each corner, each with important symbolism.

The splendid beauty of the Doi Suithep temple

Outside of the main courtyard is a second level, which is more relaxed, and doesn’t carry the strict dress code of the inner sanctum. You may wear your shoes once more and return the ‘borrowed’ clothing that is available for those who are inappropriately dressed. One of the highlights of this area is the stunning views of the Ping river valley and Chiang Mai city from a viewing area. However there are plenty of other intriguing attractions here, such as the row of bells and gongs along the sanctuary wall, which visitors like to perpetually ring (some believe for good fortune). There is also a statue of the elephant that helped found the site, as well as that of Wisuthep Rishi — a hermit who gave his name to the mountain.

There is also much more to Doi Suithep than the temple. Of course, with every tourist site in Thailand comes a cluster of frenzied commercialism and the parking lot of the temple is lined with restaurants and vendors, which supports a small community that lives up here on the mountain. More vendors, selling souvenirs and handy crafts are found at the base of the 200 steps and you’ll find yourself swamped by ladies trying to sell you pictures and prints, they can be a little persistent but aren’t too aggressive.

Until 1935 pilgrims to the temple had to walk up to the Doi Suithep summit, but luckily a road was built by the highly respected monk Khru Ba Srivichai who was responsible for undertaking the renovation of more than 100 temples in the area. His legacy is now enjoyed by the thousands of Thai and foreign visitors who are whisked up to the temple in buses, ‘songteaw’ taxis and cars. It’s even popular with local cyclists who ascend the 10km route by the dozens in the cool evenings. Once a year on the full moon evening of Visaka Bucha day, thousands of locals pay their respect by walking the route.

The road up the mountain snakes it’s way through lush jungle that becomes greener as you ascend. Even in the dry season the upper reaches remain cool and temperate with a number of streams passing under the road and tumbling down the mountain side. There are plenty of places to stop and enjoy these, some are particularly popular with students of the university that is located at the mountain’s base. Having your own car or motorbike is a good idea, especially if you wish to do a bit of walking and exploring of the numerous trails.

Doi Suithep has several lovely waterfalls that are worth visiting too. The easiest to see is Suithep waterfall which is found at the mountain’s base and is a great picnic spot. There are several restaurants here overlooking the waterfall and it’s popular with Thai families on weekends. At the entrance to the waterfall you will be able to appreciate just how important Khru Ba Srivichai was as a monk. A statue of him receives plenty of attention from Thai pilgrims who make a mandatory offering to his legacy before proceeding up the hill. Get your camera out as this is a wonderful opportunity to witness Thais in action with their Buddhist beliefs, and the atmosphere is typified by the smell of incense and sight of ladies hawking lotus leaves.

Further up the road are several smaller waterfalls beside the road where you can stop and relax, but the most impressive is Monthathan — about a third of the way up. A national parks fee of 200 baht for foreigners applies here, and the ticket is valid in the Mae Rim valley and other waterfalls in the area for the duration of the day. If you really love waterfalls — and Thailand certainly has it’s fair share of them — then this one is worth seeing after and during the rainy season and could keep you busy for an hour or more. You’d better be a little fit too as it consists of several tiers which have some severely steep paths leading to them. There is a pleasant but steep sealed 5km road to the waterfall, where you will find a lovely camping and picnic area. Some of the more adventurous even make it up to a pretty and isolated second waterfall further up the jungle trail.

Doi Suithep is certainly one of Chiang Mai’s highlights and should be on every visitor’s list. The national park is a superb environment of towering trees and lush forest, and offers a refreshing change from the busy city below.